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Susan
February 27, 2023
I need to replace the coil on my dryer door.can you tell where to order it & how much it will cost.
For model number WED7000DW0
Hello Susan, thank you for writing. On our website we sell the Door Gasket PS11731610. The pricing for this part is in the part information on the website. The stock status as well as timeframes for this part is located above in the part information. If you have any further questions, please call in to speak with an agent. We hope this helps.
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Door Gasket
$66.85
In Stock
Dollie
May 29, 2024
Dryer heat up but drum not turning.
For model number WED7000DW0
Hello Dollie, thank you for getting in touch. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the drive belt, part number PS346995, to solve the problem. It attaches to the motor pulley and spins the drum as the motor rotates. Glad to be of help!
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Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
$17.17
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Randy
April 22, 2024
Our electric dryer is not heating. What part do I need
For model number WED7000DW0
Hello Randy, thank you for your inquiry. According to our research, the issue is most probably with the dryer thermistor, part number PS11746740. It attaches on the blower housing, and monitors and helps regulate the temperature inside the dryer. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
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Related Parts:
Thermostat, Internal-Bias
$47.70
In Stock
William
May 3, 2024
Need new lint filter part number
For model number WED7000DW0
Hello William, thank you for contacting us. The compatible lint filter for your model is part number PS16744837. If you need help placing an order for it, please feel free to give us a call!
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SCREEN
$50.78
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Dryer was working, but no heat.
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of ... Read more needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
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Parts Used:
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ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
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Difficulty Level:
Easy
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Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
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Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2979 of 3357 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer motor runs, but no heat
To reach the heating element you only need to open the back cover of the dryer (about 8 nut-head screws). Remember to disconnect the power.
To remove the heating element there are two small nut-head screws. Remove the two electric wires. Then you can pull the heating element away.
You can check the heating element wi ... Read more th an ohm-meter or visually inspect it to see if the heating element spiral wire is broken. Don't hurry to dispose the old element. My model includes a small electric safety part. You'll need to transfer it to the new heating element (that comes without it).. Good luck.
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Parts Used:
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Gadi from Irvine, CA
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Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
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Tools:
Nutdriver
2263 of 2445 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer tub belt broke
Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 i ... Read more nch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.
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Parts Used:
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Ray from Denton, TX
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Difficulty Level:
Easy
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Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
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Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
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